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You need to use the “command” function and send the argument “display 2” (no quotes).
Pro tip, instead of integers 0, 1, or 2, you can use the following words:
gallery, graphics, pictures, animation, animations
clock, time
effect, effectsWow, no micro USB cable. I feel like I could learn something from you. I regularly throw them away because I have too many.
Your videos do indicate old firmware. Fingers crossed.
Just to be clear, you pressed and held the button, flicked it away so it’s not pointing at the Game Frame (so the signal isn’t “seen”) and then flicked back, and the paddle started moving again? If so, that’s the old firmware.
You can find firmware instructions in the FAQ.
Let me know if that solves your problem!
It’s Titebond original wood glue. I’ve had good luck softening it with a hot air gun (used for heat shrink tube), moving it constantly for a minute or two. They should separate with minimal force. You only need to remove the top panel, so soften the top two joints.
I’m sorry to say this is certainly an LED issue. One of them died, and won’t send the data down the line. If you have a handful of Neopixels and a reflow station it is possible to fix.
Ack! I swear, it can’t be coincidence that almost all instances of this IR problem occur in Europe. I think it might be related to the different power standards. That said, eBoy has never reported any problems with the units they use.
zytogeist, can you please verify that you’re running the latest firmware? I believe all of the ones eBoy has on hand have that pre-installed, but I could be mistaken. Here’s one way to test: Launch the breakout game. Press and hold NEXT to launch the ball and *while continuing to hold NEXT* quickly flick remote away from the Game Frame and then back at it. If the paddle stops moving, it’s the latest firmware. If it stops briefly when you move the remote away but then starts moving again once the remote returns, it’s the old firmware.
We will figure something out! If you’re running the latest firmware, please email me (jeremy and this domain).
Wow these are actually really good. What an interesting restraint too, limiting to shades of gray. Can’t say I wouldn’t love to see a splash of color in some of them, but amazing work nonetheless.
Interesting! Let’s move this discussion to email and possibly some kind of live chat. Can you drop me an email? (jeremy at this domain)
You can connect a USB cable to the Wi-Fi Adapter and run a terminal emulator to see all kinds of debug prints. You’re welcome to try that and see what it says though I’m not sure it will be helpful. I look forward to hearing whether the remote works. I assume it does, and the problem is just that it’s not reconnecting to Wi-Fi.
How long would you say the Wi-Fi is down? 8 hours or so?
To check the Game Frame firmware version you need to go here:
http://(game.frame.ip.address)/help
Odd that the light is off entirely. Hm. I assume the remote still works, and you can use the power button there in the morning? Not that that solves the problem. Just wondering what’s going on.
Hi Andreas,
If I understand correctly, once the Wi-Fi is disabled/enabled, Game Frame fails to re-connect to the Wi-Fi/Internet. Yes? You can test this by watching the LED on the Wi-Fi Adapter itself. It “breaths” cyan (light blue) when it is online.
What firmware are you using? The latest (released in May) has some fixes for getting back online if the Wi-Fi drops.
Jeremy
Boris: The previous firmware update (20161211) removed hardware brightness by default and created the option to turn it back on using the WIFI.INI entry. If you add that entry, it should work automatically with the current and future firmware releases. Does it work for you?
Boris: That feature is disabled by default due to various reasons but you’re welcome to enable it by adding the following line to the WIFI.INI file on your microSD card inside 00system/wifi. Just make sure it appears somewhere beneath [network].
apabright = trueYes, see the Advanced section of the Wi-Fi docs. To switch to effects mode, send “display 2” to the command function. Although it’s undocumented, you can also send “display effects” and that should work too (part of the pending Alexa support).
