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I got one of the new GameFrames with remote and sometimes I can press the various buttons and they will not be seen by the GameFrame and other times they seem okay. I am going to test at another location (work) and see if maybe there is too much interference from other things in my computer room.
Now the lower portion of the screen is dead. No lights on about the lower one third of the screen. I have unplugged and replugged but no luck. It worked okay for about 30 minutes and I turned it off, then back on again a few minutes later and the screen is goofed.
Hey Jeremy!
I am received my Game Frame yesterday. Even if i had to pay over 80 (!) Eur at German Custums, i am very happy with this Gadget, you did an amazing Job!
It is perfectly made, but like Patrick i figured out, that das Remote does’nt work properly. It never reacts for the first time, i hve to press tight an several times to make it work. I am in front of the Screen… Does anyone noticed that problem?
Very nice greetings.
Heiko
That’s definitely not how it should work. You do need to be generally in front of the Game Frame, but the buttons should work 100% consistently and from up to 15-20 feet away.
Can you do me a favor and shine a light at the center top of the front screen? You should see the IR receiver there through a hole in the black grid. There should also be no white vellum visible in the IR port.
I’ve attached an example photo. It’s from a prototype where the port doesn’t exactly line up with the interior but you get the idea.
Hi Jeremy!
Thx for replying! I can notice the IR Reciever. Its visible. Maybe the receiver ist not the problem.
Okay, the first thing we want to rule out is IR interference. Try taking your Game Frame to another room. Just for testing sake, maybe a dimly lit room with no windows, or at least away from other light sources. See if the remote performs better.
If not, there is something else we can try but you’ll need another IR remote. Something like an old school Apple TV remote works great, but just about any remote should do.
Unplug the Game Frame. Unscrew the four screws on the rear of the Game Frame and remove the cardboard cover. Notice the two buttons on the rear circuit board: MENU and NEXT. (You can always use those if the remote completely fails, and holding down MENU functions as hitting the power button.)
While holding in the rear NEXT button, plug in the Game Frame. The screen will go through some screen & SD tests and then stop at an IR remote test. It looks like a stylized remote icon with three colored pixels inside a gray rectangle. Holding down any of the IR remote buttons should change the image on the screen until you release it.
Now, you can teach Game Frame new IR codes so that it uses a different remote. While at the remote test screen, tap the NEXT button on the rear of Game Frame again. You should see the POWER icon with a red border around the screen. The red border means “recording.” Tap a button on your other remote control that you want to act as the POWER button. The screen should change to a MENU icon. Tap a different button on your remote, and finally do the same thing when the NEXT icon appears.
It will return to the IR test screen where you can test your new remote buttons. If they work, you can press the rear MENU button to boot the Game Frame into normal operation and keep testing it out.
If you ever want to use the original Game Frame remote again, you can go through the same process or edit the REMOTE.INI file on the microSD card inside /00system. You’ll see the original codes there that you can copy and paste into place.
Let me know your results whenever you have a chance.
I tried something out:
Different room does’nt change anything.
I tried two other Remotes. The One from my Western Digital TV (a grappy one – doesn’t work that good) worked also bad on the Game Frame – like the original Game Frame Remote. The second Samsung Remote from my TV worked very well. No Problems at all!
What i figured out: On both Remotes (Game Frame Remote and Western Digital TV) the Game Frame itself interpreted the wrong signals within the Test Mode). When i tested the Power Button, it showed Next, etc. After pressing the button again and again, it figured out “Power”.
Anyway. I switched back to the original Remote. It is like before – sometimes it workes, sometimes not. On the Samsung TV Remote it worked perfect, but I need this one for my TV. 😉
BTW: Batteries are full!
I have been using the remote really close to it. It seems you have to be pretty dead on with your aim at a close distance. From further away it is more forgiving. I think it was an aiming problem on my part. Will let you know if I have any more trouble.
Now i had some fun and tried the (very oldscool, white) Apple Remote. This is impossible, because after learning the “Power” Button, it jumps directly to the “Next” One. No chance to program the Menu Button.
😀
Brendelino: Interesting. More than likely the misinterpretation you see is because it’s receiving “repeat” commands, and it’s repeating the last signal it received. When you hold buttons down the IR remote first sends a unique code, and then a generic repeat code over and over. Game Frame just isn’t getting the new code when you first press the remote button, but it is getting the subsequent receive codes so it’s repeating an earlier command. Make sense?
I’m really sorry it’s acting flaky. Send me an email if you want to dig deeper into a solution (jeremy at this domain).
^MuYa^: Thanks for the update.
RE Apple Remote: Some buttons on the Apple remote send two consecutive codes. Try a different button?
Just to chime in from my original post… I DID get the remote working fine but needed to test in a bare room with just overhead lights. Once I did that the remote worked correctly. It enabled me to determine that nothing else was interfering. I’ve since taken the Game Frame and remote to my office where it works perfectly. I’m not trying to say these other problems aren’t legit, just my original issue was not a defect/issue with the Game Frame.
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